the seat is approximately 9"
wide at the front and 6" wide at back
take into consideration that
you may want some foam padding on top of the seat, so adjust your seat
counting on additional foam height.
cut your seat to height by
using a jigsaw with a 18-20 TPI (teeth per inch) steel
cutting blade.
The pedestal seat out of the mold is about 4 1/4"
high at the front of the seat
(with a 1/2" upward
slope to the back of seat)
1. Cut your seat down, evenly around the bottom of seat, to your
desired front height.
2. Determine a center line for the inside of boat
(hint: put a center mark on the cockpit and drop a plumb bob)
3. Determine where the stern upright engages the
back of the seat, and either cut a notch out of the seat to receive the
upright, or simply cut the appropriate notch out of the foam upright.
(This Vajda C-1 had kevlar
reinforced uprights, but some new boats like Galasport don't, so either
method is fine in either boat. Also, I positioned the back of
the seat flush with the back of cockpit, and used foam to adjust later on.
4. Since the inside hull of your boat is probably not flat, you may
need to trim some off of the bottom in the appropriate places.
(the Vajda Lizard 365 C-1, required about a 1/8" cut of curvature off
the outer side)
6. Once your seat fits the hull properly with only minor gaps on the
bottom, you are ready to mark off this position, and ready to glass it in.
Your seat will come with 4 drain holes:
2 on the top,
and
2 on the sides.
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5. You will need to add the bottom side drain holes for easy drainage once your
seat is cut down to your desired height.(you might
want an extra center drain hole, for sponging out your boat while strapped
in.)
11. You'll
want to add foot padding (1/4" neoprene
foam works best, available at
sweetcomposites.com)
on the bottom of the hull, also add about a 2-1/2" wide strip of neoprene
foam on both sides of the seat, covering the kevlar seam.
(your feet will thank you!)
10. Add
foam on top of seat under the stern cockpit, and begin outfitting the seat
for your required forward/back body position. finally covering the entire
seat with 1/4" foam of choice.
7. Sand the bottom 1" of seat, and the hull of the boat, to allow for
good adhesion with the resin and seam tape.
8. Use 5-minute epoxy to glue the seat in position at all four
corners of the seat, hold in place for 5 minutes until its stuck. This
will keep the seat stationary while doing the kevlar seam work.
9. I used 1" kevlar (twaron) bias seam tape on front, 1-1/2" kevlar seam tap
on back and sides, and a 1" piece of kevlar seam tape at the stern upright
connection. you should leave a gap at the drain holes to allow water
to fully drain out. finally covering with peel ply at the end
(this gets peeled off after drying, leaving a good finish.)